What does a brow serum do?
“Brow serums help your existing brow hair take better root so you’re not shedding as frequently,” says Healy. They also help to prompt new growth and can even help fill in bald or sparse spots. Serums are “perfect for sparse, thinning, tail-less brows or those who over-plucked in the 90’s,” says Grande. However, Healy notes that these hairs may grow in lighter or thinner, so a good brow tinting can help amplify your new growth. Unfortunately, brow serums can not prompt new growth on areas with scar tissue.
King explains that non-prescription eyebrow growth serums are considered cosmetics by the FDA, as opposed to drugs, which can directly promote hair growth claims. “With cosmetics, not much is permanent and brands can only make ‘appearance’ claims,” she says. Zeichner agrees and adds that data shows that some peptides used in these formulas have biological effects on follicles—creating longer-lasting results.
What ingredients should I look for? What should I avoid?
“Most serums on the market lack active ingredients for growth and simply serve to condition brows,” says Healy. “The main ingredient you want to look for is peptides,” which can create proteins to promote hair growth. Healy also recommends looking for formulas packed with vitamins and natural botanicals that will condition the brow hairs. Healy says to avoid hormone ingredients, sometimes listed as prostaglandins. “These usually have note-worthy side effects and are not recommended for those who are pregnant or nursing,” he says.
How long will it take to see results?
“Be consistent and patient,” explains Grande. “Rome wasn’t built in a day.” While some people may see a difference after three weeks, it can take up to four months to see the full results. To get the most out of your serum, Healy says to make sure you are consistent with your application and to not pluck, wax, or tweeze your brows for eight weeks. That that means you!